This is the day we have been trying to pretend will not happen. Its going to be a loooong day (is a day longer than 24 hours still just a day?) Ok so, we have three flights and cover four cities to land in Glasgow. That is for the lucky ones - Claudia and Judith then head straight to the train station for another journey back to Huntly and Dundee. Phew
Anyway enough with the sympathy vote and back to today. We awake in Bhuj and, wait for it....no rain. We split into two groups and head out for our last visits.
Back at the hotel we pick up our bags and a packed lunch and head for the airport and our flight to Mumbai. Arriving later than expected, we have less time than planned so head straight for the Loft Gallery to meet Anupa Mehta. We have a look around the exhibition and chat to Anupa about the visual arts in India. Downstairs for a much needed cheeky wee beer.
We then head off, some of us literally, by carriage for our final group meal where we meet Dana from the British Council.
So this is it....we must say goodbye to some of our group....Barney, Jeremy, Lokesh, Angela, Katy and Catherine...who are all staying on in Mumbai for at least one more night. Bye.. :-(
After paying a ransom at the airport gates we check in for our flight.......bye bye India.
What an amazing time we have had and what lovely lovely people we have met. x
Tuesday 23 November
What a great night. We awake to slightly less rain and coffee is brought to our rooms. We head to the main area for breakfast and much needed retail therapy at the wee shop. On our way to Kala Raksha we drop into the Hodka craft villages.
When we arrive at Kala Raksha, the rain is back on with a vengeance. Set up and run by Judy Frater, Kala Raksha helps to preserve and develop the traditional arts of the area and particularly embroidery. We meet some fantastic women who share their stories and their work with us. The trust really is about empowering artisans, teaching them business skills and developing their natural talent. There is also a museum which is preserving key pieces. Oh and there is a shop......
We say our goodbyes and head off to a weaving village to meet some of the students who trained at Kala Raksha.
Off to our hotel for our last official sleep until home....gulp. where has the time gone.
When we arrive at Kala Raksha, the rain is back on with a vengeance. Set up and run by Judy Frater, Kala Raksha helps to preserve and develop the traditional arts of the area and particularly embroidery. We meet some fantastic women who share their stories and their work with us. The trust really is about empowering artisans, teaching them business skills and developing their natural talent. There is also a museum which is preserving key pieces. Oh and there is a shop......
We say our goodbyes and head off to a weaving village to meet some of the students who trained at Kala Raksha.
Off to our hotel for our last official sleep until home....gulp. where has the time gone.
Monday 22 November
Oh my......what a night. Not sure how much sleep anyone got but we arrive not so fresh faced in Bhuj. We head to Khamir to freshen up and have breakfast. Khamir is a crafts resource centre in the Kachchh region of Gujarat. Set up after the devastating earthquake in 2001, Khamir is an NGO and 'works to reposition craft and folk music in Kachchh and to revitalize Kachchh’s creative industries'. Meera, one of the Directors, outlines how they work alongside other organisations in the region to build capacity and offer support to artisans in the area.
We head out to the local police station to get permits for out later visit to Shaam-e-SarhadVillage . It feels like we wait around for forever but we eventually get the permits. It is now raining very very heavily and there is some doubt about whether we can stay at the mud huts tonight. We set off for some lunch to discuss what we might do tonight.
After lunch we decide to go with the plan just now but with the proviso that all might change due to the weather. We head out to the countryside and lots less bustle and horns.
We meet up again with Meera and head to a pottery village that works with Khamir. Again, we are welcomed into a family home and treated with such warmth and hospitality.
We now head off to check out our accommodation for the night. When we arrive it is raining and dark and we have been told it looks unlikely that we will be able to stay. We all jump out the taxis and slosh into the village resort. Oh my goodness, what a place. There is no electricity and therefore no lighting and limited water supply. The tents are soggy and it is all a bit damp but it is amazing. The fighting spirit comes out of us all and collectively we throw a tantrum to stay. We love it. The bhungas are warm and snuggly and we are more than happy to sleep four to a room. The poor hosts are keen not to give us a bad experience that they are nervous about us staying but we persuade them and it is on. Yippee. 5 minutes after settling into the electricty comes back on. Yippee squared.
Dinner, local music and candle light. Just lovely.
We head out to the local police station to get permits for out later visit to Shaam-e-Sarhad
After lunch we decide to go with the plan just now but with the proviso that all might change due to the weather. We head out to the countryside and lots less bustle and horns.
We meet up again with Meera and head to a pottery village that works with Khamir. Again, we are welcomed into a family home and treated with such warmth and hospitality.
We now head off to check out our accommodation for the night. When we arrive it is raining and dark and we have been told it looks unlikely that we will be able to stay. We all jump out the taxis and slosh into the village resort. Oh my goodness, what a place. There is no electricity and therefore no lighting and limited water supply. The tents are soggy and it is all a bit damp but it is amazing. The fighting spirit comes out of us all and collectively we throw a tantrum to stay. We love it. The bhungas are warm and snuggly and we are more than happy to sleep four to a room. The poor hosts are keen not to give us a bad experience that they are nervous about us staying but we persuade them and it is on. Yippee. 5 minutes after settling into the electricty comes back on. Yippee squared.
Dinner, local music and candle light. Just lovely.
Sunday 21 November
Sunday morning our last day in Ahmedebad. Most of the group take the opportunity to have a lie in and a stroll around the market. Lokesh rounds up the rest of us and we are off to Petaphur, a village 1 hour outside the city, to meet one of the most reknowed block makers, Govindlal Prajapati. The craftsmanship in the making of the blocks is amazing and an archive of every block produced. After some home made baking and coffee, we head back to the city. The address on his business card is brilliant by the way.
After a wee revision of the itinerary, we head back to lunch with Abhay Mangaldas. Abhay is the CEO of the House of MG and is a prominent business man in Ahmedebad. Lunch is an international affair with stir fry and pizza with a much relished choc mousse for pudding.
Tonight is sleeper train night and I am not sure many of us are looking forward to the experience. We get to the train station in plenty of time and wait on a pretty packed platform for the train to arrive. Jonny stays with us and helps us all onto the train. Bunks found we wave goodbye to Jonny and the train pulls out of the station.
After a wee revision of the itinerary, we head back to lunch with Abhay Mangaldas. Abhay is the CEO of the House of MG and is a prominent business man in Ahmedebad. Lunch is an international affair with stir fry and pizza with a much relished choc mousse for pudding.
Tonight is sleeper train night and I am not sure many of us are looking forward to the experience. We get to the train station in plenty of time and wait on a pretty packed platform for the train to arrive. Jonny stays with us and helps us all onto the train. Bunks found we wave goodbye to Jonny and the train pulls out of the station.
Saturday 20 November
Today we split into two groups. One is off to the Calico Museum and the rest to various places around the city. The Calico Museum turns out to be an amazing resource with another formidable lady at the helm and there is much discussion about the approach to displaying the textiles.
The other group takes in Bobby painter and the lovely and very full Art Book Center.
When all we meet up again at the Gandhi Ashram. Today there are a few poorly ones among us so some of the day is cut short for some much needed respite. Those feeling up for it move onto the hand made paper factory.
Lunch is at Swati Snacks - mmmmmm
After lunch and splitting into two groups, Aanchals group goes to Studio Korjan and one of the loveliest couples.
Due to our creative time keeping we had been told to head straight for Arts Reverie for tonights event but we persuade Aanchal that it would be better if we could pop into the hotel for a quick change. Thanks Aanchal.
The event at Arts Reverie has been designed to be informal and allow networking. The Scottish group all introduce ourselves and we open up discussion to all where a lively conversation follows. So many lovely and interesting people to meet.
The other group takes in Bobby painter and the lovely and very full Art Book Center.
When all we meet up again at the Gandhi Ashram. Today there are a few poorly ones among us so some of the day is cut short for some much needed respite. Those feeling up for it move onto the hand made paper factory.
Lunch is at Swati Snacks - mmmmmm
After lunch and splitting into two groups, Aanchals group goes to Studio Korjan and one of the loveliest couples.
Due to our creative time keeping we had been told to head straight for Arts Reverie for tonights event but we persuade Aanchal that it would be better if we could pop into the hotel for a quick change. Thanks Aanchal.
The event at Arts Reverie has been designed to be informal and allow networking. The Scottish group all introduce ourselves and we open up discussion to all where a lively conversation follows. So many lovely and interesting people to meet.
Friday 19 November
So where are we......ah yes, Ahmedebad. Today we are off to NID (National Institute of Design). School is out so unfortunately no students are around but it is still an exciting place to be. The Institute also has links to various UK colleges so maybe a few more can be found in Scotland?
Across the road is the City Museum Corbusier building. It turns out that many of us did not realise that the museum itself is the Corbusier designed building. This is not a reflection of our tiredness but the museum does not really shout about such an asset. And we have to mention the slightly damaged Queen Vic statue outside - pics anyone?
Downstairs we meet Daybashish from the Ahmedabad Heritage Cell for a quick chat.
I think it is safe to say that we have now fully embraced the Indian culture and, more specifically, their approach to time keeping. Not sure when we last ate but we are off again and this time to SEWA. SEWA is a trade union that is made of self-employed women workers who earn their living through labour or small businesses. SWEA regard these women as the unprotected labour force of the country. We watch the women making some beautiful pieces including some for Liberty.
After a, perhaps slightly longer than anticipated, pit stop for a snack at Lokesh's sisters cafe, we are off to Rajka Designs and Pottery. We see the beautiful and contemporary textiles and fashion in their office and then move onto the pottery workshop. Rajka pottery specialises in large hand made terracotta pottery and their ambitions include blending tradition with contemporary. They are also exploring residency models. After an impressive pottery skill display we head back to the taxis.
When we are in Ahmedebad, the Heritage Festival is on many events are happening across the city including Arts Reverie's networking event tomorrow night. Tonight, we have the privilege of being invited to a special museum. A handful of us pop into a taxi and head out to Doc Locks Museum. The Mayor joins us briefly at the Docs house and we are also interviewed by and photographed for the Times of India - bring on tomorrows edition......
Dinner at House of MG where the waiters are certainly an experience to be had....
Across the road is the City Museum Corbusier building. It turns out that many of us did not realise that the museum itself is the Corbusier designed building. This is not a reflection of our tiredness but the museum does not really shout about such an asset. And we have to mention the slightly damaged Queen Vic statue outside - pics anyone?
Downstairs we meet Daybashish from the Ahmedabad Heritage Cell for a quick chat.
I think it is safe to say that we have now fully embraced the Indian culture and, more specifically, their approach to time keeping. Not sure when we last ate but we are off again and this time to SEWA. SEWA is a trade union that is made of self-employed women workers who earn their living through labour or small businesses. SWEA regard these women as the unprotected labour force of the country. We watch the women making some beautiful pieces including some for Liberty.
After a, perhaps slightly longer than anticipated, pit stop for a snack at Lokesh's sisters cafe, we are off to Rajka Designs and Pottery. We see the beautiful and contemporary textiles and fashion in their office and then move onto the pottery workshop. Rajka pottery specialises in large hand made terracotta pottery and their ambitions include blending tradition with contemporary. They are also exploring residency models. After an impressive pottery skill display we head back to the taxis.
When we are in Ahmedebad, the Heritage Festival is on many events are happening across the city including Arts Reverie's networking event tomorrow night. Tonight, we have the privilege of being invited to a special museum. A handful of us pop into a taxi and head out to Doc Locks Museum. The Mayor joins us briefly at the Docs house and we are also interviewed by and photographed for the Times of India - bring on tomorrows edition......
Dinner at House of MG where the waiters are certainly an experience to be had....
Thursday 18 November
After a late night (ahem...) we pack up. First stop of the day is back to the City Palace for a look around. A few of us were lucky enough to get into the royal palace itself and look around the sitting room with its framed pics of HRH Charles and both wives (opposite ends of the room natch).
Then off to Rangotri, a large block printing centre. All parts of the process are done in-house including the dyeing, printing, stitching and packaging. Carrying on the gender theme, only men work in the factory.
Airport here we come.....
After landing we split into two groups with Claudia, Catherine and Jeremy heading to the Arts Reverie and the rest of us to understated House of MG. Arts Reverie is a delightful, restored haveli in the heart of the old city and is charm personified, although the stairs are a bit scary!
Here we meet Lokesh who will join us for much of the remaining trip and, in his own quiet way, becomes the new manager of the group, and Jonny.
Later we split up again into groups for various missions and get the delight of riding around the city in rickshaws. Who knew how much fun that would be!
We are also given our own individual missions from Lokesh.
Now off to bed for some much needed sleep.
Then off to Rangotri, a large block printing centre. All parts of the process are done in-house including the dyeing, printing, stitching and packaging. Carrying on the gender theme, only men work in the factory.
Airport here we come.....
After landing we split into two groups with Claudia, Catherine and Jeremy heading to the Arts Reverie and the rest of us to understated House of MG. Arts Reverie is a delightful, restored haveli in the heart of the old city and is charm personified, although the stairs are a bit scary!
Here we meet Lokesh who will join us for much of the remaining trip and, in his own quiet way, becomes the new manager of the group, and Jonny.
Later we split up again into groups for various missions and get the delight of riding around the city in rickshaws. Who knew how much fun that would be!
We are also given our own individual missions from Lokesh.
Now off to bed for some much needed sleep.
Wednesday 17 November
So we awake in Jaipur to.....rain. Yes, we brought the weather with us. November turns out to be the wettest in the region for about 10 years.
Dressed in our finest for the evenings reception (another learning point for J&B - girls need to know in advance if they will have the opportunity to change or not before an event) we head out to Anokhi and the Museum of Hand Printing. Pioneers of hand block printing for the export market, Anokhi has, over the last 30 years, tried to balance skill and tradition. The collection is just beautiful and we even got the chance to see and try some block printing. And of course there was a shop.........oh - and some monkeys.
We then popped along to what turned out to be, for me, one of the most amazing experiences....Jal Tarang. A major restoration project in the middle of a lake (which was also part of the restoration project as it used to be a sewer), we had the privilege of visiting the palace before its completion. The scale of the work undertaken in such a short time was remarkable and it will be quite spectacular when finished. Another intriguing element was the level of future planning included when it came to the crafts involved. A lot of time was spent at the very start of the project designing bespoke pieces which would also provide future crafts merchandise for the shop. Not something we see a lot of back here. Oh and the best coffee served so far.
Bundled back into the taxis, and very soggy by now, we move on to Festival Foundation JVF to meet Faith Singh (one of many formidable leading ladies we meet) and Divya Bhatia. Divya was just back from Glasgow and had previously worked on the NVA Hidden gardens project. I think we all agreed that Judith won the prize for best purchase here.
On our way to the evenings reception hosted by Association of British Scholars at the City Palace, we escaped from the taxis and walked through the city. Beautifully set, the reception was well attended and despite the nerves, a few words were said to introduce the group.
Back to the hotel and a big welcome back to Siddartha who was intent on experiencing Scottish partying.....
Dressed in our finest for the evenings reception (another learning point for J&B - girls need to know in advance if they will have the opportunity to change or not before an event) we head out to Anokhi and the Museum of Hand Printing. Pioneers of hand block printing for the export market, Anokhi has, over the last 30 years, tried to balance skill and tradition. The collection is just beautiful and we even got the chance to see and try some block printing. And of course there was a shop.........oh - and some monkeys.
We then popped along to what turned out to be, for me, one of the most amazing experiences....Jal Tarang. A major restoration project in the middle of a lake (which was also part of the restoration project as it used to be a sewer), we had the privilege of visiting the palace before its completion. The scale of the work undertaken in such a short time was remarkable and it will be quite spectacular when finished. Another intriguing element was the level of future planning included when it came to the crafts involved. A lot of time was spent at the very start of the project designing bespoke pieces which would also provide future crafts merchandise for the shop. Not something we see a lot of back here. Oh and the best coffee served so far.
Bundled back into the taxis, and very soggy by now, we move on to Festival Foundation JVF to meet Faith Singh (one of many formidable leading ladies we meet) and Divya Bhatia. Divya was just back from Glasgow and had previously worked on the NVA Hidden gardens project. I think we all agreed that Judith won the prize for best purchase here.
On our way to the evenings reception hosted by Association of British Scholars at the City Palace, we escaped from the taxis and walked through the city. Beautifully set, the reception was well attended and despite the nerves, a few words were said to introduce the group.
Back to the hotel and a big welcome back to Siddartha who was intent on experiencing Scottish partying.....
Tuesday 16 November
Is it really only day 3? Today we leave the beautiful Sanskriti and, before flying out to Jaipur this evening, we have another full day ahead of us. First up is a quick trip to see the British Council Offices and then we are off to the Crafts Council Gallery / Shop, Kamala and to meet Manjari Nirula. A voluntary, not for profit registered body with a network of ten councils, the council has tried to tackle the twin issues of providing sustainable livelihoods and professional marketing support as a viable means of developing traditional crafts. Kamala is the visible side of this operation and showcases the work produced. It is also a fantastic shop and is it becoming quite clear that shopping is a favoured activity of the group - perhaps to the surprise of Barney and Jeremy!
Leaving Kalama with our bags we then take a walk (!) to Religare Gallery to have a tour and some lunch. A beautiful space in the heart of the city, Layla from the gallery welcomes us and shares their approach to curating and working with artists. A key element of their program is a residency strand which brings together 25 artists into their space to explore a unifying theme.
After lunch we set off again to the National Crafts Museum. A curious place currently in limbo, we explored the museums exhibitions and installations (Elinor - any thoughts? :-)) We also had the funny experience of being asked to pose for pics with local school kids.....international celebrities or what.
A quick drop into the India Habitat Centre for the Delhi Blue Ceramics exhibition and we are off to the airport.
Asked why horns are used so much when driving in India, our taxi driver says 'if you have a horn and don't use it you are not a man.' Fair enough.
Jaipur here we come......well after a bit of delay.
Leaving Kalama with our bags we then take a walk (!) to Religare Gallery to have a tour and some lunch. A beautiful space in the heart of the city, Layla from the gallery welcomes us and shares their approach to curating and working with artists. A key element of their program is a residency strand which brings together 25 artists into their space to explore a unifying theme.
After lunch we set off again to the National Crafts Museum. A curious place currently in limbo, we explored the museums exhibitions and installations (Elinor - any thoughts? :-)) We also had the funny experience of being asked to pose for pics with local school kids.....international celebrities or what.
A quick drop into the India Habitat Centre for the Delhi Blue Ceramics exhibition and we are off to the airport.
Asked why horns are used so much when driving in India, our taxi driver says 'if you have a horn and don't use it you are not a man.' Fair enough.
Jaipur here we come......well after a bit of delay.
Monday 15 November
Breakfast at 8:30 and a quick tour of the museum at Sanskriti Kendra (and a wave goodbye to Claudia who is off to develop a project for Deveron Arts) then into our carriages and off to the Mike Knowles studio and another warm welcome. This collective studio complex hosts a small number of designer / makers and appears to be a relatively unique set up. Here we caught up with Gaurav Jai Gupta of Studio Akaaro, who we had also met the previous night. A dynamic fashion designer, Gaurav Jai Gupta studied at Chelsea in London as well as NIFT.
Before lunch we also get the opportunity to get our hands dirty by shaping traditional water pots. Not sure all the posts ended up water tight but.......
After a lovely lunch in the garden we are off again, this time to meet Laila Tyabji at Dastakar and Claudia again. Dastakar belives that craft is a viable means of employment which contributes to the national economy. They work with crafts groups to develop their business skills so they can become self sufficient.
The we are on the road again, popping into Alec Davies studio then onto Nature Morte Gallery where unfortunately Mona Rai, the exhibiting artist, is not available. Our next stop is Siddartha Dhas Studio . Siddartha is a designer, craftsperson, curator, public artist (the list runs on) and his projects include one for Scotland's very own Roderick Buchanan. At the end of Siddartha's presentation he lets us see his stock cupboard - ooohhh - let the shopping begin! See you in Jaipur Siddartha........
Before lunch we also get the opportunity to get our hands dirty by shaping traditional water pots. Not sure all the posts ended up water tight but.......
After a lovely lunch in the garden we are off again, this time to meet Laila Tyabji at Dastakar and Claudia again. Dastakar belives that craft is a viable means of employment which contributes to the national economy. They work with crafts groups to develop their business skills so they can become self sufficient.
The we are on the road again, popping into Alec Davies studio then onto Nature Morte Gallery where unfortunately Mona Rai, the exhibiting artist, is not available. Our next stop is Siddartha Dhas Studio . Siddartha is a designer, craftsperson, curator, public artist (the list runs on) and his projects include one for Scotland's very own Roderick Buchanan. At the end of Siddartha's presentation he lets us see his stock cupboard - ooohhh - let the shopping begin! See you in Jaipur Siddartha........
Sunday 14 November
After a long journey we arrive in Delhi - yippee. We are packed up and swept away to the lovely Sanskriti Kendra Foundation where we received a very warm welcome. But no sleep for the intrepid Scottish explorers as we are right down to business. Dr. Jain gave us perspectives on the contemporary crafts of India
India has a lot of crafts people - the figures varied from about 5 million to about 14 million - that is a lot of people. Crafts are the 2nd largest employment sector after farming with the majority involved being women. Social awareness and responsibility appear to be very much at the heart of what we have seen today. Also that crafts are a skills development opportunity for community and creative enterprises.
The day was very relaxed and insightful and gave us all a good introduction to each other. Off to bed for some much needed sleep.
This was followed by an introduction from Creative Scotland and an opportunity for everyone in the room to introduce themselves. It was mentioned that the curators group was made up of all women - not to be the last time this was commented on.
India has a lot of crafts people - the figures varied from about 5 million to about 14 million - that is a lot of people. Crafts are the 2nd largest employment sector after farming with the majority involved being women. Social awareness and responsibility appear to be very much at the heart of what we have seen today. Also that crafts are a skills development opportunity for community and creative enterprises.
The day was very relaxed and insightful and gave us all a good introduction to each other. Off to bed for some much needed sleep.
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